The Best ATV Shocks: Everything You Need to Know Before Buying

Stop Wasting Money on the Wrong ATV Shock

This guide exists because many ATV riders don't research suspension before they buy. They grab whatever’s cheap, whatever’s in stock, or whatever someone swears is “decent.” Then it still rides like crap and it’s back to shopping again. Suspension is one of the easiest places to waste money if you don’t know what actually matters.

Proper shocks make the ride controlled and stable instead of harsh and sloppy. It stays consistent when you’re riding hard for more than a few minutes instead of turning to mush once it heats up. And when it eventually wears out, you can rebuild it. Good shocks are serviceable. You keep them alive. With the cheap stuff, when it starts leaking or fading, that’s the end of the road. You replace it. That’s why “cheap shocks” usually turn into buying shocks twice.

Penske builds Custom Axis shocks, so yeah, we're biased. But the info here applies whether you buy from us or not. This guide is for riders who notice when the front end feels vague, when the rear starts kicking, or when the whole machine feels different halfway through a ride. If you're here, you care how your ATV feels and you want a setup that stays consistent and can actually be serviced.

This guide leans toward buying the best you can afford, because that’s how you stop doing this twice. If you ride hard, do long days, race, or you just want the machine dialed and predictable, good shocks aren’t a luxury. They’re the difference between riding controlled and riding beat up.

Now let’s get into how to tell if you actually need new shocks.

When to Upgrade ATV Shocks and Signs You Need New Suspension

Think of it like your truck. If you’re just running to grab groceries, the stock suspension is fine. It rides decent, it does what it’s supposed to do, and you don’t think about it. Start towing heavier, loading the bed, hitting washboard roads, or driving it hard, and suddenly you notice what the suspension can’t do. ATVs are the same. Many stock shocks work for casual riding and moderate speeds. Once you start pushing pace, hitting rougher terrain, or riding long days, you find the ceiling.

There are two reasons people end up needing shocks. If your shocks are leaking, fading when pushed, or the ride has gotten noticeably harsher and less controlled than it used to be, they’re done.

The other reason is you’ve outgrown stock. Nothing has to be “broken” for stock shocks to be the wrong setup. Factory suspension is built to cover the widest range of riders and keep the machine safe and cheap to build. It’s not designed to feel dialed for a rider who actually cares. It’s not built around your weight, your terrain, and the way you ride. Once you’re outside that factory window, the quad stops feeling settled. It blows through travel too easily, hits harder than it should, and feels different as the ride goes on because basic shocks don’t handle heat well.

If you race anything competitive, stock is a compromise. It might survive, but it won’t stay consistent when you’re pushing it. Same deal with long days. If 60+ mile rides leave you wrecked, suspension is a big piece of that. And if you bought a base model, you already know what’s up. On a lot of machines, this is where the factory saved money, and the shocks will feel cheap.

You don’t need to be chasing speed to justify better suspension. Sometimes the goal is just a quad that feels better. Maybe you’re toning it down a bit, maybe you’re doing longer days, maybe you just want less fatigue and more control. That’s still a suspension problem.

If you don’t ride rough terrain anymore, don’t ride that often, and you’re basically just happy to have an ATV, a straight stock replacement is fine. It doesn’t even have to be the exact OEM shock model - there are plenty of replacements out there that are basically stock-equivalent.

But if you are riding enough to notice the limits - pace, rough terrain, long days, or you just care how it feels - then you’re not shopping for a replacement. You’re shopping for an upgrade, and the next thing to understand is what you’re actually paying for across the different shock tiers.

ATV Shock Quality: What Separates Budget, Mid-Level, and Top-Tier

ATV shocks are easy to sort into three tiers: budget, mid-level, and top-tier. The difference isn’t hype or a logo. It’s whether the shock is disposable or serviceable, whether it stays consistent when it gets hot, and whether it’s set up as a generic “works for most people” shock or built around your weight and how you ride.

Budget shocks are usually the $400-$1000 range. A lot of these are basically disposable. They might bolt on and feel “different” at first, but they’re not built to last, and many aren’t worth rebuilding. When they wear out, leak, or start fading, that’s it. You replace them. If you barely ride and just need something to get your machine back on the trail, buy them again. If you’re trying to actually upgrade the ride, this tier usually turns into buying shocks twice.

Mid-level is more in the $1000–$2,000 range. This is where things start being legit. Think Elka Stage 1–3, Fox Podium options, Works setups, depending on your machine. The big step up here is rebuildability and real damping control. They usually ride better than stock, stay more consistent, and give you adjusters that actually change how the ATV feels.

Mid-level shocks come with internal setup meant to work for most riders. If you're average weight riding normal terrain, they'll feel great. If you're heavier, lighter, ride harder, or you're picky about how the machine feels, you'll notice the compromise.

Top-tier is usually $2,500+ for both front and rear, and that’s where you stop playing the compromise game. Custom Axis/Penske, Elka Stage 4, and true custom builds live here. This tier is built around your weight, your machine, and how you ride. You get a better baseline, more control, more tuning range, and shocks that are meant to be rebuilt and kept for the long haul. This is where serious riders end up because it stays consistent, holds up, and doesn’t get outgrown the minute you start riding harder or longer.

If you’re trying to buy the best, you can’t shop by price tag or brand name alone. Here’s how to spot the shocks that are actually top-shelf and can hang with the best.

1. Can you rebuild it later, or is it throwaway?
Ask the seller or builder straight up if it’s rebuildable and if parts are actually available. Look for language like “fully rebuildable,” “serviceable,” and “revalve available.” Here's what a proper shock rebuild involves. Also look for a real service path: seal kits, rebuild intervals, and a shop that will actually touch them. If the listing is vague, or it’s marketed like a bolt-on replacement with no mention of service, assume it’s disposable.

2. Is it set up for you, or one-size-fits-most?
When you order, see what info they ask for. A solid setup usually requires rider weight with gear, typical terrain, pace, and the ATV model/year. If they don’t ask anything, that’s a generic setup. Generic can still be fine, but it’s not tailored. If you want it to feel dialed, look for “built to order,” “custom valved,” “sprung for rider weight,” or “tuned for rider and terrain.”

3. Will it stay consistent on a long ride?
Heat is what ruins shocks. Once they get hot, the ride changes and it goes downhill. If you ride hard or ride long, you want a reservoir - piggyback or remote - because it keeps the shock from fading halfway through the day. No reservoir usually means it’s fine for easy riding, but it won’t stay consistent when you start pushing.

4. Is it built solid, or built cheap?
This is harder to see in a product photo, but there are clues. Look for a reputable builder with real service support, not a random no-name. Look for details like hard-chrome shafts, quality seals, and consistent machining. Also look for how the company talks about quality control - dyno testing, matched pairs, documented builds. If the product page is all hype and zero specifics, that’s a flag.

5. Do the adjusters actually do something, and do you need them?
Adjustability is only useful if it’s real and you’ll use it. Look for clear, specific adjusters: rebound adjustment, compression adjustment, and sometimes high-speed/low-speed compression on higher-end units. If it just says “adjustable” without saying what adjusts, that’s usually marketing. Also be honest - if you never tune anything and just want it to work, a properly set-up shock with fewer adjusters can be better than a complicated shock you’ll never touch.

Custom Axis ATV Shocks: The Penske ATV Shock Lineup

If you've decided you're shopping top-tier, Custom Axis is what Penske builds for ATVs. Penske makes suspension for Formula 1, NASCAR, and IndyCar - professional racing where shocks are the difference between winning and losing. Custom Axis is that same level of engineering applied to quads.

Custom Axis shocks are built around your ATV, your weight with gear, and how you ride. Not a generic "fits your model" setup and not a middle-of-the-road tune meant to keep everyone mostly happy. The baseline is set for the real load the shock is going to see, and that's why the ATV feels planted and predictable instead of close-but-not-right.

Every set is hand-built in Reading, PA and dyno-tested before it ships. That matters because it keeps build consistency tight and it verifies the shock matches the spec. You're not hoping it's right - it's confirmed before you see it. They're also fully serviceable. Seals and oil wear out on any shock, but these are built to be rebuilt and kept.

This is also why the price lands where it lands. A full setup is typically $3,000–$5,000+ depending on options. You're paying for a shock that's built for your machine and riding, verified on the dyno, and designed to be serviced long-term.

Browse the full Custom Axis ATV lineup or go straight to the 3-way adjustable shock builder.

How the order page works: The Custom Axis order page is you picking the baseline tune and how much tuning control you want. The dropdowns look more complicated than they are.

Application Type sets the baseline tune. Long days, mixed terrain, and woods racing = Cross-Country. Racing and big hits = MX. Dirt Track or Flat Track = TT.

Adjustability is how much control you want. Non-adjustable is set up for your info and left alone. Single adjustable gives you basic tuning control. Double adjustable gives you compression and rebound adjustments. Triple adjustable adds high-speed and low-speed compression plus rebound. More adjusters = more control if you'll actually use them. If you want it set right and left alone, double adjustable is plenty. If you tune for different terrain every ride, triple gives you the range.

Spring configuration is how it feels across the stroke. Dual-rate uses two springs so it can stay compliant on smaller chatter and still ramp up for bigger hits deeper in the travel. Triple-rate extends that range further, which helps when your terrain is all over the place and you want the ATV to stay composed without getting harsh.

AirShock option replaces the coil spring with air. Adjust spring rate with air pressure instead of swapping coils. Want it stiffer for racing? Add air. Softer for trail riding? Let some out. One shock, multiple setups. Still needs the right baseline - it's not a gimmick, it's a different spring system.

If you're not sure what to select, don't guess. Call and give real info: weight with gear, ATV year/model, any suspension mods, how you ride, and what terrain you ride most. That's how the build lands right the first time. Learn more about Penske's S3 setup process.

Lead time is 10+ business days minimum, longer during spring/summer. You're not buying shocks - you're buying the last suspension setup you'll need. Everything is rebuildable. Everything is serviceable. This is the exit ramp from buying shocks every year.

​​Why Custom-Built ATV Shocks Are Worth the Premium Price

Custom Axis is typically $3,000–$5,000+ for a full setup depending on options. Mid-level setups are usually $1,000–$2,000 depending on brand, adjustability, and whether you're doing fronts only or a full set. So, why pay more?

Because "mid-level" is usually a generic tune. It's built to work pretty well for a wide range of riders. If you're close to average weight and you ride like most people, that can be a solid upgrade. If you're picky, ride hard, ride long days, or you're far from average weight, generic is where the "close but not right" feeling comes from. Custom means it's built around your weight with gear, your ATV, and how you ride. That's the whole premium.

Here's what you actually notice on the ATV when the setup matches you. The machine feels planted instead of vague. It tracks straight through chop instead of getting pushed around. It stays consistent instead of fading as the shock heats up.

It feels controlled instead of harsh, meaning it takes hits without spiking you, and it doesn't blow through travel and slam. And it stays that way through a long ride. It doesn't feel like one setup at the start and a different setup later.

Custom is worth it for specific groups. Racers, because inconsistency costs time and mistakes. Hard trail riders doing long days in rough terrain, because fade and harshness are what wear you out. Riders who are heavy or light compared to "average," because generic setups rarely fit right and you end up fighting spring rate and damping from day one. And riders who are just done with compromise and want the ATV to feel correct without chasing fixes.

The other reason people end up here is the buying pattern. A common path is stock → mid-level ($1,000–$2,000) → ride a season → realize you want more control or more consistency → sell the mid-level setup at a loss → buy Custom Axis ($3,000–$5,000+).

Or you buy custom once.

This is top-tier money for top-tier performance. Everything is rebuildable. Everything is serviceable. Penske offers full rebuild and revalve services - you're paying for a setup that matches you and stays consistent, not a generic upgrade that gets you most of the way there. Here's why investing in quality shocks pays off long-term. If you're hard on equipment or picky about how the ATV feels, that's the whole argument.