FAQS

a- Yes you can, while we recommend dealers, and we urge customers to buy from dealers that are close to you. Customers can buy direct from Penske Shocks.
a- Average turnaround time for a service is 1 week from time of receipt.
a- Average time from placement is 2 weeks. All shocks are custom built at time of order placement, so timing can vary depending on time of year.
a- We have shocks that fit most bike models, use our look up chart to see if we have a current spec for your bike. If you don’t see your model listed, please call us, we can typically build a shock for any model, if your model isn’t listed, we may just need some specific information to ensure proper fit.
a- Some shock models can be easily converted to fit another bike model by simply changing a clevis, shaft, or bushing for proper mounting. Please call or email us your current bike model and what new model you plan on going to, and we can let you know what will be involved in converting the shock.
a- There are a many opinions on how to install the eyelet depending on the eyelet configuration. Click Here to see how to properly tighten eyelets depending on their configuration.
a- This is a common misconception, that you instantly gain grip by dropping gas pressure. There are many cases that increasing gas pressure can help with mechanical grip, it is all relative to your set-up. Typically in a very smooth, slick track, decreasing gas pressure can help mechanical grip, you have to be careful that you don’t remove too much gas pressure or the shock could begin to cavitate.
a- Similar to above, this is all relative to your setup. You may notice more grip on a smoother slick surface. This is because the smaller shaft diameter has less of a gas pressure because its not displacing as much fluid into the canister. This means there is less resistance for the shock shaft to initially move when the suspension sees bumps in the track. Less resistance is typically more grip. The flip side is, smaller shafts could feel like they have less support.
a- What is important is what dimensionally fits your application. Take all factors into consideration, including ease of adjustment. With that said, the most efficient design is the In-line mono tube, 7300. This has less moving parts, and typically has more grip. A piggy back is very similar in performance but adds the convenience of added external adjustability, where the 7300 has to be disassembled to adjust this. The remote style shock in theory is less efficient because of the hose and the flex in the hose. This is very minor and usually not even felt depending on the line length and diameter.
a- When either adjuster is at it’s full soft position, you will have very little effect on the Dyno depending on your test parameter. Typically 10″/sec is what we Dyno the shocks at. At this level you’re not moving enough fluid or producing enough internal pressure to affect the graph. At full soft, each adjuster is allowing fluid to completely by pass each other. If you were to Dyno the shock on a larger displacement or faster velocity, you will see the adjustments make a difference on the Dyno. The key is to know what velocities and displacements your seeing on the racetrack.
a- This is one our most popular questions. The most important thing to remember is, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A DYNO GRAPH FOR YOUR SHOCKS. This is a certificate or validation of what you’re currently running. Click Here for an explanation on how to read a Dyno Graph.
a- This is simply valving code or reference. In the infancy of tuning shocks, this number was more relevant. As time passes, and shock tuning evolved, we started to look at different parts of the curve. High speed and low speed damping, then we took it a step farther and now we look at all digressive and linear, or high flow, and even regressive. In the end, when you start to look at all the variables when it comes to producing a curve, labeling it with a simple one digit code doesn’t really help anymore.
a- This is something we recommend you do on your shock Dyno. You would need to Dyno your other shocks to get a template of what the valving code represents. Say a 3 on rebound. Then build your Penske shock to match that curve. Keep in mind, something like bleed will have a big effect on feel and performance of the shock, but it might look very close on the shock Dyno. This is again why we as an industry have moved farther along than just referencing a simple single digit when referencing a build spec.
a- As long as you run a gas test prior to running your sample test, the gas pressure won’t affect the damping loads. If you don’t run a gas test, the graph will be shifted on the Y axis (vertical axis). Important to remember, gas pressure won’t affect damping loads, simply will affect the initial load needed for the main shock shaft to start moving and displace fluid. Think of it as a similar feel as spring rate when tuning on a car, higher gas pressure feels like stiffer springs.
a- Click Here, this will take you to our service form. Fill this out completely and send in with your shocks. If you have any specific questions or concerns, please feel free to call the shop and we will be sure to answer any questions you may have.
a- Simply Click Here to see what model most resembles your model. One thing to remember, Penske Shocks are very universal, you can mix and match a lot of our parts, so you may not see your exact model. Main items to note:
• Adjustably: Non, Single, Double, Triple, or Four Way Adjustable
• Configuration: In-Line, Remote, or Piggy Back